Bilbao, Spain

Bilbao on Spain’s northern coast.

Bilbao, Spain – May 2016

Bilbao is an amazing city that you would never know was there — no one ever talks about it. Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum sits on the Nervión in titanium curves that shift with the light, and when it opened in October 1997 it helped turn a former industrial riverfront into a place the world suddenly wanted to see. People call that rebirth the Bilbao Effect. May 2016 was my chance to see why this northern Spanish city stays under so many travelers’ radar.

Vizcaya Bridge

[It’s the world’s first transporter bridge, designed by Alberto de Palacio and opened in 1893 between Portugalete and Getxo, and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2006.

Full span of the reddish iron Vizcaya Bridge over the Nervión with waterfront buildings and an overcast sky.

Full span of the Vizcaya Bridge.
Red iron Vizcaya transporter bridge with its hanging gondola mid-crossing above the river and waterfront apartments.

Vizcaya Bridge with the gondola mid-crossing.
Close view of the Vizcaya Bridge gondola carrying two cars, with a person standing between them over grey-green water; the transporter bridge between Portugalete and Getxo.

Here’s the gondola on the Vizcaya Bridge mid-crossing — cars on board, someone standing right in the middle of the deck. 

Near the Airbnb

This is my View from the Airbnb. One thing I remember is the host not understanding why I was there, since I couldn’t speak Spanish yet! haha

High balcony view over red-tiled apartment roofs, a plaza playground, and a wide bay under heavy grey clouds.

View from the Airbnb over roofs and the bay.
Small sloping grassy park with a rounded green tree, blue bollards, and surrounding apartment buildings in Bilbao.

A small park near the Airbnb, I was only here for one night, but I didn’t see many people.

Guggenheim

The building is wrapped in about 33,000 thin titanium sheets that shift color with the weather and light.

Guggenheim Museum Bilbao’s curved titanium facade beside the river, with the red La Salve bridge structure and walkway figures.

Guggenheim Bilbao beside the river, with the red La Salve structure.
Guggenheim Bilbao’s titanium curves seen across the estuary from a riverside walkway with white railing.

Guggenheim across the water from the riverside walkway.
Man in a black t-shirt leaning on a white riverside railing with the Guggenheim and red La Salve bridge behind him.

At the railing with the Guggenheim behind.
Man standing on the promenade with Guggenheim Bilbao to the left and the tall Maman spider sculpture to the right.

On the promenade with the Guggenheim and the Maman spider. Run!
Man playfully posing with one hand raised under the giant Maman spider sculpture outside the Guggenheim Bilbao.

Maman by Louise Bourgeois, nearly 9 meters of bronze and steel — I couldn’t resist reaching up to pet her.
Man with a backpack standing inside a huge bright-yellow circular light projection on a gallery wall.

Inside a yellow circular light installation at the Guggenheim.
Man seated on a white bench in a Guggenheim gallery surrounded by colorful abstract wall panels on a wood floor.

On a bench in a colorful Guggenheim gallery.

River walks

Sunny tree-lined riverside promenade along the green Nervión with walkers, modern lamps, and hills in the distance.

Tree-lined riverside promenade.
Sunset glow over the Bilbao estuary with the Guggenheim reflecting gold light and apartment towers on the opposite bank.

Sunset glow over the estuary and museum.
High view down the green Nervión toward a blue bridge, with a promenade, colorful kiosks, and green hills beyond.

Looking down the Nervión toward a blue bridge.

Cathedral & a café stop

Looking up the Gothic nave of a cathedral toward ribbed vaults, stone screen, and warm spotlighting.

Bilbao’s Cathedral — Interior
Layered coffee drink in a stemmed glass topped with whipped cream, cocoa, and coffee beans, on a saucer with a biscuit and spoon.

A layered coffee drink with cream and coffee beans.
Glazed bun on a white plate at an Airbnb dining table, with a living room and overcast city view through large windows.

Breakfast at the Airbnb table.

Beautiful view from the Airplane

Airplane window view at sunset: orange horizon above a dark cloud layer with the winglet silhouette on the right.

Sunset above the clouds from the plane window.